My wife’s favourite places tend to be hip and modern, clean and tidy. Places like Japan, for instance, or Norway. By the time I had this revelation we were already in a taxi from the airport to the hotel, passing graffiti-clad tenement blocks and macabre shrines. Perhaps Naples wasn’t the best place to begin our honeymoon, I thought. But it was too late to go back now.

Honeymoons, like weddings, have changed over the years. My parents went camping on the French Riviera and in Italy, spending their first night as man and wife in separate bunks on a cross-Channel ferry (good one, Dad). One set of grandparents headed for the Swiss Alps in summer, while the other, having met and married in wartime...