Berwick-upon-Tweed may seem Scottish – the Tweed is a Scottish river; the locals speak with a burr – but it’s on English soil. The Scottish border is three miles (5km) further north. The confusion is understandable: sitting at the mouth of the Tweed, it passed between England and Scotland 13 times before, finally, in 1482, it became England’s most northerly town. 

Often dismissed as just a stop on the train journey to Edinburgh, the town likes to surprise: it was L S Lowry’s favourite holiday spot and has Britain’s most complete town walls, a unique art collection, and a resident swan colony. Not to mention it is close to fine beaches.

Arrive on May 4 and you’ll get to witness the annual Riding...