A basil-based pasta sauce that’s become a store cupboard staple and quick-fix mealtime saviour, pesto is arguably the greatest creation to emerge from this Ligurian port city – so celebrated, in fact, it’s been granted Unesco status. The green goddess is certainly ubiquitous but there’s so much more on the menu, as demonstrated by new gourmet market Mog, which opened beneath the arches of Mercato Orientale’s historic cloister earlier this month (moggenova.it). 

An extension of the classic 19th-century food hall where plump tomatoes are sold alongside fronds of forest-green cavolo nero, the new street food set-up features 11 counters stocked with artisan creations including panini from Michelin-starred...